A little taste of Paris - Entrecote Café de Paris, Abu Dhabi
For those who missed my article in Dining and Nightlife, a local publication, here is my review of Entrecote Café de Paris.
Ornate chandeliers. Wooden floors. Burgundy and brown
colours. French inspired paintings. Where has this little gem been hiding? In
some ways it is like stepping into a time capsule. An era of intellectuals. Of
ladies and gentlemen not apologizing for being such. A time of refinement. I
feel it would not be out of place to sit down here with Balzac and discuss old
Goriot!
Entrecote Café de Paris , despite being in the city for 3
years, remains unique with a concept that has not been duplicated in the city.
It is a restaurants in which tradition and respect have their place. Respect
for that tradition.
The concept at Entrecote Café de Paris is very simple. Based
on the 1930 Café de Paris founded by Mr Boubier in Geneva, the restaurant has a
single menu. And even that does not fully convey the simplicity. There is a
classic Green salad, with a choice of Entrecote steak
with the signature ‘Café de Paris’ sauce and homemade French fries. On the menu
there is a choice of three types of beef
– New Zealand grass fed, Australian Angus and Wagyu. All three are sirloins. My guest
and I choose all three and decide to share.
The salad is uncomplicated but tasty, with that generous
mustard vinaigrette full of flavor. But it is the steak we are keen on. The
famed sauce is served and on the surface looks nothing more than tick whipped
cream, but then the drama unfolds. The beef, atop a burner, is then covered
with it, and the sauce takes shape. This, all done at our table, brings a
theatrical element to our evening. They are served one by one.
From a surprisingly extensive and very French dessert menu,
I choose the Chocolate fondant. It is
classic. It is served with vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberries on the
side, the latter two mere distractions. I forego them and try the chocolate
fondant. It is glorious. As I break it with my fork, chocolate oozes out and an
intense chocolaty aroma fills the air. A decided lack of sweetness speaks of
the quality of the chocolate. Delicious.
With probably the lowest staff turnover I have encountered
at a restaurant in Abu Dhabi, I feel the sense of contentment among staff.
Having said this, the service while friendly and attentive, misses a wow factor
until we meet Danilo who just takes it up a notch.
Entrecote Café de Paris is quite a special restaurant. If
you can look beyond the lack of variety on the menu, it is like no other
restaurant in the city. There is an old school charm about it, and while the
menu is not obviously French, it has a French café feel to it. It serves up
something quite unique and with its location in the Souk, it offers a welcome
alternative to hotel restaurants.
The lowdown
Entrecote Café de Paris,
Souk Qaryat Al Beri,
02 5576508
(fully licensed)
Beef 165AED-380AED
(incl salad and unlimited fries)
Chocolate fondant AED34
Brandon Stoltenkamp
Comments
Post a Comment