It had been 5 months since my last visit to TRB Hutong, a fine contemporary French restaurant, with me having moved to a nearby province and having had various COVID mini lockdowns. On this occasion, I decided to forego my go-to dining concept, brunch, and instead went for dinner to try the White asparagus Seasonal Tasting menu. I must say, the restaurant looks so different as it goes through the different phases of sunset - Gorgeous.
I have noticed a disturbing trend among high end Beijing restaurants which is best summed up in this: Pan sear foie gras, place it on some pebbles and charge 300RMB! I lament that quite a few restaurants are really tapping into an uneducated but moneyed element in the market who are simply coming along for the social media experience. While TRB is not immune to that, I do feel there is a purity about the restaurant which retains value for money as one of its core principles. I do respect that.
After another TRB dining experience, here are 4 reasons TRB Hutong is a cut above most restaurants in Beijing.
The Experience
I have commented before on what it's like arriving at the restaurant - TRB Hutong Brunch . On this day, around 6pm, it was an extra slow drive through one of the hutongs to get to the restaurant. One of our party of 4 expressed concern that the car would not be able to get through the narrow lane, flanked by parked cars. I responded that it was part of the charm of this venue. Then, there is also no clear signage or a name that indicates TRB HUTONG. While annoying the first time I came to the restaurant, I actually view it, again, as part of the almost enigmatic and iconic location.
For me, the courtyard can be an integral part of the dining experience and we requested that we start with our welcome drink - a TRB institution - in the courtyard. With sun threatening to set on this cloudy evening, while also trying to envelop us with whatever rays were able to get through the courtyard trees, against the backdrop of the restaurant, it was hard not to love the setting. Dining should be more than just sitting down for three hours and having food. It is an experience and the courtyard is one of the ways to ensure that you indeed have that.
The Fork
Chef JFK, always unassuming and with his incredible smile, created a menu that includes some exceptional dishes and pays perfect homage to the white asparagus. His dishes speak powerfully to the eye and then the palate. Chef's creative journey starts with the amuse bouche, two of them, and it is is fun and playful, especially the salmon in a cone. It also allowed me to see some new additions to the range of china used ay the restaurant. Rather than mention each individual dish, I will mention three dishes that really stood out, which in no way impugns dishes not highlighted.
First, the King crab. Having seen this dish done in several places, reaching almost clichéd visual status, Chef's concept here is a sensational result. Now, think of the word sensational and focus on its root - senses. Yes, that is what this dish is all about. However, it is also more than that. It also speaks to a chef's craftsmanship if you look at how delicately everything is done. As the dish is put in front of me, I am of course curious to see where the crab leg is. I see caviar - optional extra - held in a thinly sliced, almost carpaccio-like piece of radish. The aroma of citrus and black pepper waft through the air, but not overwhelmingly. Then, within a pocket of radish, recalling a dumpling, is the crab leg. So smart! The result? This dish is fresh and incredibly flavoursome, taking the palate on a range of flavour stops along the way. Marvellous, and probably one of my top 3 dishes at TRB.
The second dish that warrants special mention is the fish. In high end restaurants, there are generally three types of fish, 4, if you are French, that will make it on to a menu. Atlantic cod or Chilean seabass, Mediteranean sea bass and halibut are reliable on any menu and carry that 'name' factor that is important among local guests. The last type would be sole, a standard on any French menu. We know these dishes and we like them. However, they are also...safe.
Instead, on the tasting menu as part of its asparagus celebration, is Barramundi or Asian sea bass as it is known to some. It is a fish that checks so many boxes from sustainability, ethical farming and certainly taste and texture. It is, though, the last two elements that would interest one the most once the dish is placed in front of him/her. First, it is a visually arresting dish, with that golden yellow saffron a feast on its own. Added flavour comes through thanks to generously used fennel and of course white asparagus. Lastly, the barramundi has beautiful texture and colour, and I am not even mentioning the delicious skin. I would gladly order this as a main course any day!
The final dish among my 3 dishes of the night, is the Duo of Lamb. As the name suggests, it is two different cuts of lamb, the type of dish that invariably gets me excited because I love seeing how a chef interprets the same ingredient in distinctive ways. First, the lamb saddle is slow cooked, ensuring typical tenderness, embedded on a mint and pea puree. Second, the lamb shoulder is seared, cooked to chef's recommended temperature for lamb, while it swims in a pool of lamb jus! Thanks to quinoa, the dish is rich, filling and of course, textured. Balancing the dish, is, naturally white asparagus. How good is the dish? Let me put it this way. There is a beef dish that has been on the menu here forever because it is a firm favourite with guests, but this lamb dish puts it in the shade because of the clever technique and skill involved. Trust me, unless we are talking richly marbled beef like Tajima, beef is beef. Go for the lamb!
Service
This is such an integral part of the TRB experience. Service actually started two weeks before dinner, with an online booking and staff support. Wine pairings were discussed and other questions were addressed. It warmed me that staff felt confident enough to be flexible with some of the wine choices. Well done.
For many restaurants, the last year has been one of the most challenging. With a virtual freeze on appointments from abroad, it was always going to be difficult replacing staff who moved on to other cities or restaurants. This is where TRB Hutong has been fortunate. They have lost some good people, but based on the evidence during our dinner, the new/newish staff will fill those voids with aplomb. There were moments during dinner that highlighted certain elements of service at the restaurant. Moment 1. I wanted to put my man bag somewhere and looked around fleetingly. A moment later, Annie, Assistant manager, had brought me a stool, without prompting. Instinctual and quietly done. Bravo! Moment number 2. Andrea, restaurant sommelier with a rich experience of service in a fine dining setting, was in a casual conversation with us and we got to talking about sweet wines and I was disparaging about muscadelle type sweet wines. An hour later we are served our dessert wine and he had switched it to a Port. Off the menu. Impressed. Attentive service and an ability to use discretion are two things so important in service.
These were two seemingly unrelated instances of service that would serve as microcosms of the level of service here.
The Glass
At 528RMB+ net, the wine pairing was an astute one. Of course, there were a couple substitutions including a cava instead of the usual J Laurens, TRB's house sparkling. I also appreciated the opting for a bolder choice to pair with the barramundi, a Pinot Noir from one of my favourite wine regions, Marlborough. I think the team did a fantastic job in their pairing. People tend to forget that the pairing price is actually excellent value in the Beijing context, but what i would like to see is the option of a premium pairing selection. So, a standard pairing at 528 RMB+ as well as an option at 728/828 RMB+. It would not be difficult to recycle as both TRB restaurants are really geographically close to each other. Unfortunately, there is a large segment of the high end dining market that simply orders whatever is the most expensive, so it could not hurt the restaurant to try it. Also, it allows guests with an understanding and appreciation of a good wine, to have an even better evening without going into debt!
Verdict and Looking Ahead
The presence of new staff, a fine china refresher with the addition of some new pieces and of course a newish seasonal menu point to a restaurant that is not resting on its laurels but looking forward. On my last visit, a key part of my service experience was the acknowledgement of strong leadership on the floor. That remains true, albeit with some new faces. In terms of menus, the last year with all its disruptions saw menus remain longer than they were supposed to. Hopefully now, things will get on track with regular updates of seasonal menus. Also, revisiting the wine pairing options at both dinner and brunch with premium options will be a progressive and welcome move. However, for now, I am reminded again why this restaurant is well loved by locals and expats alike. It is an experience. The White Asparagus Seasonal Tasting menu made it worth coming from Hebei and spending the night in Beijing. Kyle and his service team allow the guest to be transported to another place for 3 hours while service flows effortlessly. At a time when we are far away from our loved ones, there is a big emotional hole that needs filling. Chef JFK and his kitchen, with dishes that really warm the heart and evoke all kinds of emotion, ensures that the connection between food and emotion remains strong here at TRB Hutong.
Essentials
TRB Hutong
Dongcheng District
+86 10 8400 2232
Subway: Line 6/8 Nanluoguxiang
Exit B - a relaxed 20 minute walk.
White Asparagus Tasting Menu (seasonal)
988 RMB 6 courses
528 RMB wine pairing
+15% Tax
Brandon Stoltenkamp
I: bmstoltenkamp
Comments
Post a Comment