The AZUR by Mauro Colagreco Experience at Shangri-La Hotel, Beijing.

Dreaming of the Southern Shore

- by Bai Juyi (772-846) of Tang Dynasty

Fair Southern shore,

With scenes I adore.

At sunrise riverside flowers redder than fire,

In spring green waves grow as blue as sapphire,

Which I can't but admire. 

Spring has many facets t it. There is the obvious metaphorical wealth it has but there is also something more obvious and more literal - it is colourful, as captured by Bai Juyi, a Tang Dynasty poem. It is with this in mind that I try a specially created brunch menu at AZUR by Mauro Colagreco at the Shangri-La Hotel, Beijing. The menu features some dishes on the restaurant's Spring menu. The afternoon has added significance because it is the last time I would have the pleasure of these dishes being overseen by the restaurant's Chef Deepak, Head chef at AZUR before he moves on to another challenge.  

The menu kicks off with what I can only describe as a visual feast. As the plate is placed in front of me, I am in no doubt that some dishes, more than others, are a bold celebration of Spring. This is definitely the former. It is served in signature Mauro Colagreco china that evokes the sea - a single Gillardeau oyster sits atop a generous amount of ice, with sprigs of chervil reminding one of sea plant life surrounding the oyster. Oyster and scallop tartar fill the shell. Then, raspberry. Mmm... how shall I describe it? Imagine pieces of raspberry with elements of a coulis. That does not quite capture the texture, but let's go with that. Finally, a dollop of caviar ensures that this will be an oyster dish not to be forgotten. In the age of social media, this is one to post!

I am faced with a dilemma as I contemplate how to eat it. The tartar nature of the oyster and scallops allows you to pick at it, but I decide to lift it and fill my mouth with it, much like I would usually have an oyster. However, nothing could have prepared me for the overwhelming intensity of flavour and texture, long enough in my mouth for me to discern the elements in this dish. It is simply sensational, leaving me silent for a few moments afterwards as  a sea of emotion washes over me. It leads to an interesting philosophical debate internally - extended pleasure in bits as opposed to one intense moment of pleasure?

After what proves to be a breathtaking starter, I have a few extra sips of champagne as I continue to reflect on what just happened. Veuve Clicquot NV, the free flow champagne option at AZUR, has become a  bit of a go-to bubbly because it never disappoints. It also highlights the value of a.brunch where champagne is a free flow option at a great all-inclusive price. 

Next up, we have the Foie gras, mango, carrot and ginger. I am immediately intrigued, excited in particular about the ginger and mango - the later because it is such a sweet fruit. It has me wondering about balance. With ginger of course, there should be no difficulty proving just that. I like the orange, if truth be told, for its obvious flavour connections to duck but also because of the freshness with which it imbues the dish. I also enjoy the nicely textured foie gras, with that surface beautifully cooked. The one thing I cannot find though is ginger. Balance. It is a shame because I believe it is such an under-used ingredient in cooking. I also find myself wanting more texture though, so I get some bread and scoop up that delicious sauce, while taking a bit of the other ingredients. There is something so satisfying about doing that!

After a perfectly timed break between courses, The Green pea velouté, grilled salmon and coriander is a dish that has me divided. For me, the champion is the pea velouté and I think that is recognised in the kitchen, hence it is not called Grilled salmon and pea velouté. I find it velvety smooth and punctuated by texture with baby peas on the plate - it is full of richness. As for the colour, it is Spring in a bowl. It is intrinsically wonderful that I deem the salmon a distraction. Having said that, the grilled salmon seems to complete its cooking as the warm velouté is poured over it, making it a very smart dish and a good one in terms of the contrasts of colours that permeate Spring. 

For the following course, the halibut is served. The first thing that strikes me about the Butter seared Halibut is the gorgeous plating. The large, flat plate allows the dish to express itself, running free of any obstacles often created by the shape of a plate. The end result is glorious. Chef's generous butter sauce allows the halibut to swim, but not drown. The balance is immaculate. Look out for some piquant flavours as salmon roe and sudashi lime add immense intensity to the dish. 

The final savoury dish is the Black pepper beef fillet. One of the things I have come to appreciate about AZUR is its bold interpretations at times of beef. I flippantly said to a friend that cooking a piece of beef is not complicated as long as you have a thermometer. Where is the technique? The question is what a Chef does to make the dish is his own and to allow the beef to speak something unique to the guest. This has been my experience at AZUR. So, I am not surprised to see this dish. Rather than a serving a black pepper sauce with the beef, Chef has encrusted the beef with black pepper, while it sits in a deeply flavoursome jus. Finally, completing another beef dish that shows a desire to challenge the guest's idea of a typical Australian Angus  tenderloin, are fondant potato and matsutake mushroom. 

After some lively discussion at our table about every dish up to this point, we start the dessert course. The first of two desserts is  fun and eye catching. There is a playfulness about the plating and once again, the perfect choice of plate, this time  courtesy of JL Coquet. The dish, simply titled Lemon tart, is the perfect dessert for me. I am always going to steer towards a lemon or citrus based dessert, or anything that is not obviously sweet. Also, this dessert has it all as far as texture goes. So, with a trio of lemon in the tart, cream and meringue, something is needed to take the palate on the same journey but in a slightly different direction. There is the obvious one and that is the raspberry coulis, with its abandoned splash on the plate. There is, though, another surprise underneath the meringue. I will not say what it is, but it is a sensible surprise!

And finally...Choco hazelnut cake and yuzu sorbet. As the cliché goes, all things good have to come to an end, at some point. However, not before one more dish for the sweet toothed. On the surface, this dessert looks disconnected. I would suggest that you not try to see it as a one dessert. Rather, view the tangy and delightful yuzu sorbet as a palate cleanser and then have the chocolate hazelnut cake. That cake is just heavenly. It is firm and also soft and has an intense 'chocolatiness' without being supremely bitter. This is a dessert without the showmanship of say the crepes suzette, a brunch specialty here, but it is all about flavour. Fabulous. 

Spring is a time of change. It is moment where one one is able to look back at the dregs of experiences and ashes of disappointment and welcome the new season. Spring, in short, is a time to start again. It is apt that Chef Deepak should move on to embark on his own new beginning while AZUR itself continues to serve dishes that reflect Mauro Colagreco's vision. There is a growing dynamism about the restaurant as I feel guests are awakening to its two greatest strengths. Firstly, the food is exceptional and while I question how Michelin goes about making its choices in Beijing, it is only a matter of time before AZUR  gets its star. Secondly, it is a restaurant that attracts a more mature guest who is not obsessed with simply taking pictures and posting them on social media. I love that its all about food. You can really feel at home here. As Chef Deepak departs and hands over the kitchen to Chef Pang, the foundation here is very strong and I have no doubt AZUR will continue to be one of my two favourite restaurants in the city.  

Essentials

Azur by Mauro Colagreco

Shangri-La Hotel,

Beijing

+86 10 8882 6727

Standard Brunch menu 818 net incl free flow champagne

Signature Tasting menu

5 courses 939 net excl wine pairing

7 courses 1 158 net excl wine pairing

Brandon Stoltenkamp

Instagram: bmstoltenkamp