Champagne nights come to Tianjin

 Champagne. The word evokes so much emotion, does it not? For me there is no other glass of anything that so perfectly serves a s metaphor for life. No two glasses are the same and it changes every minute as oxygen connects with it. Then, moving into a more literal appreciation, it allows me to stare and stare at the bubbles , as they dance, either in a structured pattern and at other times, in mayhem! A glass of champagne has the power to both elevate the spirit in times of despair and hopelessness and also to take it even higher in times of joy. It was with all of these in mind that I floated the idea to some friends and acquaintances to start a Champagne Lovers' group - I hate that name though. Thus was born out first Champagne night. 4 people. 4 different bubblies. My home. 

The evening started around 17h15 when all guests had arrived. Aperol Spritz of course. A champagne cocktail is so luxurious, but let's face it, the moment you mix champagne with something else, you lose its beauty. For this reason, I used an entry level prosecco. It is, after all, and Italian aperitif. It did not take long for the conversation to start flowing, while we nibbled on a bite size Jamon and melon 'dish'. Looking at the world below us, with glass in hand and Jay Chou providing mood music, part of a 5 hour playlist created for the evening, there was a decided air of contentment about. 

The Journey 

Amuse bouche
Iberico ham, melon / Garlic shrimp 

Aperol Spritz 

Starter
Burrata, cherry tomatoes, fig, granola, balsamic reduction 

Prosecco Lamberti 

Intermediate
Qingdao Scallop, bacon dust, green pea puree 

Piper Heidsieck Brut NV 

Main
Beef steak with dijon, Potato mash, butternut 

Veuve Clicquot Brut NV 

Dessert
Lost in the Forrest  

Freixenet Cava 

Chocolate
Remy Martin champagne Cognac  VSOP

We started with Burrata, a rich and indulgent creamy cheese that is the superior cousin to mozarella. It was ensconced in a bed of cherry tomatoes, topped with fresh fig to add a mild fruitiness, fresh basil, granola for texture and to hold the dish together, a sprinkling of balsamic reduction. The latter is key because it has a captivating, almost sensuous consistency that normal balsamic vinegar does not have; and of course, it has that deep sweet sourness. Finally, toasted brioche really grounds the dish, encouraging you to scoop up the burrata using the bread. We paired it with Lamberti Prosecco, keeping the Italian theme going, while Notorious BIG played in the background.  Although this is primarily a group dedicated to champagne, it is also about exploring sparkling wine, prosecco and cava. Besides, sometimes a prosecco provides just the perfect pairing. 

A key part of evenings like these is numbers. Small and intimate means a deeper level of conversation, otherwise it is just another evening that morphs into every other. I think, now more than ever, that people are looking for things that are real and meaningful. The last 2 years have challenged us as people on a universal level, so I want to keep these evenings small. I have capped it at 8 people when we have our second evening at a restaurant in the city. Between Patricia, Vivian, Shuaib and myself, by the time we had finished the starter, we had reached a relatively safe place, talking more openly about our passions, frustrations and hopes. 

An enthralling intermediate course had us having a pan seared scallop perched atop a generously proportioned lemon-infused pea puree. Crispy bacon bits, strewn on the scallop, completed the dish. It went down beautifully with the Piper Heidsieck NV Brut. It is a nicely structured champagne, thanks to its dominant Pinot Noir make-up. Pale gold in colour with fairly light effervescence, it is quite a fruity offering, with hints of pear and white peach. Tremendous value on the pocket too!

It seemed the perfect time to just sit back in anticipation of the main course, while Lebanese singer Nancy Ajram's infectious music  kept us company. Conversation is a dying art form, as mobile phones take over the dining experience. We have become a people who need that 5 inch screen for whatever reason. It felt so reassuring to sit and just communicate with others while sipping on the sweet nectar of the gods that is champagne. 

Our main course was a simple affair. I bought a cheap cut of steak, the unheralded chuck roll. I have taken to using lesser known beef cuts because the traditional rib eye and sirloin pieces are grossly over priced locally. I also made two sides - pureed butternut and potato, with cinnamon and rosemary the respective spices for these dishes. The end result was pretty good considering the beef; not bad at all. We had this with Veuve Clicquot NV Brut, the ubiquitous yellow label. Veuve is very commercialised and is the second biggest selling bubbly behind Moet. Clever branding and a distinctive label have ensured that it retains something of a cult following. If truth be told, it is not a bad champagne at all. The thing that excites me most about Veuve is its gorgeous effervescence and profound yeastiness that I just love!!! Add a crispness and enviable freshness to its apple and citrus notes and you can see why it is so loved. 

 

At 8.30pm we were getting ready for dessert. Yes, it was a monumental evening, where time almost stood still. Dessert, entitled, "Lost in the Forest" allowed guests to stretch their legs and gather around in a space that many of would associate with warmth in our childhood homes as we gathered around the table. My instruction to guests was simple: You have lost something  but we are here to find it. It was not long when Shuaib's face lit up and he remarked, 'Hey, what is that?" My answer: 'Childhood!' I laced the chocolate soil, made from crumbled Oreos, with popping candy. It was there to evoke childhood. Dessert was all about reconnecting with that time of innocence, for many people. Marshmallows covered in matcha powder to resemble tree tops, passion fruit to add balance and chocolate ice cream infused with berries created the backdrop to that rediscovery. The consensus was that dessert was fun. Childhood rediscovered. 

To complete the bubbly evening, we had a Freixenet Cava. I chose this rather than a sparkling moscato because dessert was already sweet. I wanted something to challenge and fight that sweetness. 

But that was not the last drink to pass our lips. We ended it with another drink from the Champagne region, Remy Martin VSOP Cognac, enjoyed with a selection of chocolates. Mmmmm.

Thus ended an incredible evening of bubbles and conversation. Bubbles brought us together, from diverse countries and backgrounds, highlighting the universal quality of bubbles. Of course, wine could bring people together too. Beer could do the same, but there is something about looking through a glass of bubbles, standing on the 27th floor of an apartment and being transported away. Champagne has that undeniable ability to take the pauper and change him into a prince for a few hours, and I tell you, for 4 1/2 hours, we are all princes and princesses. Magical. Simply magical. 

All pics Courtesy of Vivian

Brandon Stoltenkamp

I: bmstoltenkamp