Afternoon Tea, a pianist and bubbly at Shangri-La Hotel, Tianjin

There is something so decadent and indulgent about sitting in a hotel lobby, sipping on champagne while  a pianist enchants you with some staple classical pieces. It is a perfect time for self-reflection and planning. When the setting for this is the Shangri-La Tianjin and it falls on a Sunday, it is even more ideal, ending the weekend with a bang, as opposed to whimper. 

I have always loved the lobby here. It checks all the boxes when it comes to a grand hotel lobby. High ceilings, luxurious chandeliers,  floor to ceiling windows, ample space and a grand piano! Coupled with the elegant movement of lobby lounge staff in traditional Qi pao, you feel it is a place where time can just stand still. Of course, one wants to have the ultimate lobby lounge treat, namely afternoon tea. And how does one elevate afternoon tea even further? Have it with a bottle of champagne.

The hotel boats probably the cheapest Veuve Clicquot NV in the city. At 688RMB you will not find it cheaper in any hotel and certainly not any bar. This is fantastic value for a quality champagne. Incidentally, if you are not of the bubbly persuasion, I do recommend their Chilean house wine priced at a sensational 99RMB per bottle while the promotion lasts. I recommend the Sauvignon Blanc. It is nothing like a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but does have some mild tropical fruit hints and at 99RMB? Nice.

While waiting for my order to arrive, I allow myself to listen to the hotel pianist, Yun Lin, who has been entertaining guests in the lobby lounge for 4 years now. Dressed in an elegant,  long, black, flowing outfit, she glides towards the piano where she takes her seat and breaks into her first set of 3. She starts off with traditional European classics, but it is her interpretation of Debussy's Claire de Lune that has me smiling warmly. 

At this time, my champagne and afternoon tea set have been served. A glass of Veuve with Debussy gently ringing in my ears is not a bad way at all to while away the Sunday. Feeling peckish, my attention turns to the afternoon tea set. It is a set that reflects the local market as far as afternoon tea goes. Gone are the scones and cucumber sandwiches, and instead you have a carefully crafted journey that is visually striking. In a phrase, it is happiness on a serving board. 

The afternoon tea set offers something for everyone, with a lovely balance between sweet and savoury. There is chicken pesto on brioche - an absolute highlight. I also love seeing egg salad in the set. On a side note, I like that Chef has gently toasted the bread. One thing I enjoy about afternoon tea is how the afternoon meanders slowly and by the time I usually get to an hour into my tea, the bread starts to get a bit hard. However, with it lightly toasted, this does not happen. Next, I break from the savoury by having the melon and parma ham - a must have in any afternoon tea set these days. The challenge is to get sweet melon out of season. Mine? Just right. 

My next sip of bubbly is beautifully interjected by Beethoven's Fur Elise, as Yun Lin continues her set. I had a chance to ask her what she likes most about playing at the Shangri-La Tianjin She said:  "In the lobby, the space is very wide and high, and the sound of the piano can spread far. I like to change my playing style according to the weather and festivals, sometimes happy and sometimes sad. I hope to bring guests a comfortable feeling, and I hope every guest can hear their favourite music." This is why I came back a week after hearing her play the first time. I wrote a couple requests on a napkin and she was happy to oblige. 

The lounge is fairly busy and the two attendants on duty, Flora and Nina, do a fantastic job taking care of the guests. They are busy, but not rushed. I really don't like seeing staff rushing across the floor with trays in hand. My feeling is: staff can only do their best. Sometimes guests must understand. Service from the heart is what you expect from a Shangri-La team; it may not always be flawless, but it is always with that warm Shangri-La essence. 

As far as the sweet elements in the afternoon tea set go, I love the milk tart with strawberry and pistachio crumbs. It is a happy treat, with balance and texture. Of course, one should always have the opera cake. In addition I am intrigued by the mango and avocado mousse , ensconced in a fig outer shell. By the way, Chef used coconut for texture. I wish more chefs would use this ingredient. I find the mouse really interesting but it is the technique that I appreciate most about this. However, I am ambivalent about the chocolate mousse. The mousse itself and the dark chocolate, I guess around 60%,  are spot on, but I would have liked the caramel jelly to be actual caramel sauce. Now that would have been sensational. 

Overall, a value for money afternoon tea set that is just right for two. Incidentally, it includes two drinks - tea and or coffee. 

As the afternoon turns into late afternoon, the Yun Lin moves from classical to American jazz, with Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald's "Cheek to cheek" striking the right chord, before she does a few more by the Great Satchmo. As my last glass of champagne is poured, the Winter sun has long since set and as I watch Yun Lin pack up and shut the piano, I reflect on what a wonderful afternoon that turned into an early evening, with a pianist, Veuve and a lovely afternoon tea set in my home away from home, the Shangri-La Hotel, Tianjin. 

Details

The Shangri-La Hotel,

328 Haihe East Road,

Hedong District,

Tianjin, China

e: sltj@shangri-la.com

Subway: Dawnzhuang Line 9

Exit D

Afternoon Tea Set 288RMB ++

Brandon Stoltenkamp