We have become a world obsessed with glass and steel. In many ways we have actually devolved, eschewing anything that is old and not shiny. Beijing has seen a surgeon new hotels opening the last 10-15 years, showing of magnificent glass and steel structures to entice millennials who have no idea what a cd player is and worse, a telephone. The Shangri-La Beijing, more than 30 years old, challenges that very notion. I recently stayed at the property, more than 15 years since I last stayed there. The question in my mind was: Can a 30 year old property compete with the newer properties in the city? Other than its brand, what has the hotel done to remain appealing?
The Hotel
The hotel has two wings - the original building and a newer building, called the Valley Wing. It is pretty much based on the concept initiated years ago by the Singapore Shangri-La property. It means there are two entrances but the check-in area is centralized, in a lobby that joins the the two buildings. I was booked for an Executive suite, housed in the old wing. In theory, I should have been able to check in at the club lounge reception in the Valley wing, but there was a a bit of confusion with a staff member. In the end, at my insistence, I was shown to the Club lounge where I checked in. Of course, you can check in at the main reception area too, but after a train journey from a nearby province, I needed a drink while checking in. I suggest that you make it abundantly clear on arrival, if staying in a Club room or suite in the older wing, that you wish to use the Club lounge to check in. By the way, it is a 2 minute walk from one building’s set of elevators to the other. Pretty convenient.
Room
My suite was on the 23rd floor, nicely situated by the elevator door - so convenient. The room is warm and homely, with the living room quite spacious - a super sized desk is adjacent to one of two bathrooms, while the sofa seating area has a window that looks down on the magnificent garden. The windows are not floor to ceiling, but the ones in the Valley wing are, incidentally. With regards to the bedroom, it is pretty much what you would expect from Shangri-La. I must say that the design has aged very well. Finally, the bathroom. It is small indeed but there are things a hotel cannot change, regardless of a refurbishment. I had a look at one of the Valley wing entry level rooms and it was noticeably larger, with a double sink, luxurious marble and an in-mirror LCD TV set the key features. Personally, I feel the Executive suite in the old wing offers very good value for money while not compromising too much. There is, after all, no equivalent room in the Valley wing, with a Diplomate suite the next level. It comes down to what you prefer - tradition, warmth and a story vs something with that just made luxury feel. The suite has a charm about, I know I would not find in the newer wing. A case in point is the Kenwood sound system that plays CDs! Yes, there were some CDs I was able to enjoy while taking a bath and sipping on a Tempranillo. So old school! The bottom line for me is this - you cannot refurbish bricks and mortar, but you can maintain the same level of service and luxury ensuring that guests feel equally at home in both wings
Club Lounge
The Lounge is massive. In addition to the usual seating options, there are a few smaller, more private areas that serve to ensconce one away from the noisy times in a lounge like happy hour and breakfast. Moreover, these lounging spaces are tastefully done and maintain that living room feel of the lounge. It is a typical Shangri-La Club lounge and you can expect the usual array of afternoon treats with a some finger sandwiches and pastries. Afternoon tea it is not, but to be fair to the hotel, it does not promise that to guests. Nonetheless, there is enough on offer to keep the guest interested. Happy Hour, on the other hand, is a feast. It is fascinating how the character of club lounges has changed through the years with guests becoming more demanding and hotels trying to offer more value for money. The Happy hour has a wonderful spread, so good in fact that you’re unlikely to want to leave. But that is the idea with the hotel within the hotel experience isn’t it? You should feel you’re at home.
Breakfast in the club lounge, something I always anticipate with great expectations, does not disappoint, with the obvious high point the a la carte menu that is pretty much a hotel chain standard with a few exceptions.
However...the biggest strength of the lounge is certainly not the breakfast or indeed Happy Hour. It is something intangible and yet your soul will certainly feel it. One word: Service. From the moment I had issues at check-in, I was reminded of a hotel’s most valuable resource - its people. Throughout my stay, I had the pleasure of encountering service that is such a cornerstone of the Shangri-La brand. First, in advance of my hotel stay, I requested an international newspaper. Newspaper delivery has been pretty much erratic at best during COVID-19 and I was told that unfortunately there would be no international newspaper. To my great surprise, though, the excellent Guest Relations manager, Lynn, ably assisted by Jet, managed to get me my first choice of newspaper.
Second, the staff to guest ratio in the lounge bears mentioning. It has not been that long since Beijing experienced a second wave of COVID-19 so it was amazing to see just how many staff were on duty. There was an energy among staff and one of my pet hates, tables that are left uncleared long after guests have left, did not materialize. Staff were quite sharp clearing plates. I have to single out Jet, for his marshaling of staff and ensuring good service levels. Then, there were two servers among an excellent team, Serena and Emma. They were consistent throughout my use of the lounge. Smile. Say hello to the guest by name. Smile again and deliver on the request. They did it so well.
Dining
The hotel features 7 dining options; quite generous! On a visit a few weeks ago, I had the pleasure of dining at Azur by Mauro Colagreco, the hotel’s French Riviera inspired restaurant and sister restaurant to Minazur, the world’s number one restaurant right now. Although I was there for brunch, the restaurant features an excellent a la carte menu and progressively priced wine list - I challenge anyone to find a bottle of Veuve Clicquot NV for under 600 RMB anywhere in the city, let alone at a 5 star hotel. You can read the full review here: Azur
The Garden
The glorious 3000 sqm landscaped garden is a microcosm for the virtues of old properties. A garden takes time to grow, notwithstanding new developments in landscaping, and the garden in the hotel is evidence of a property that has been around for a while. Tranquility was the first word that sprung to mind as I walked through it. I could hear children’s playful laughter coming from one end as they fed the koi, a nervous giggle from a bride who who was readying her herself while the photographer was testing the light could be heard from the lawns while towards the restaurant terrace I could see a young woman enjoying her coffee in the mid morning sun. I think on my next visit I might just pack a blanket, a bottle of wine and my FT Weekend and enjoy the garden even more. The garden is that X-for that makes the Shangri-La Beijing really special.
Verdict
The hotel, located in the residential area of Haidian, finds itself in tough company in a city that has seen tremendous growth in tourism over the last decade or so but has a unique ability to offer rooms for a really wide range of guests, from the 20 something year with a penchant for modernity to the more mature guest who respects tradition and appreciates certain nuances that you can only find in an older property. As long as guests in weather wind feel the same level of service, it is a great concept. Secondly, I have to mention the value for money aspect of a stay at the hotel. In the month running up to my stay, entry level rooms were consistently around the $160 a night mark, rising of course depending on room and wing preferences. Tremendous. Finally, one can never mention a stay at a Shangri-La property without waxing on about the service. The team in the Club Lounge ensured a memorable stay and have illustrated again the worth of a good team. All in all, a very good choice for your stay in Beijing.
Essentials
Shangri-La Hotel,
Haidian District,
Beijing
Phone: 86 10 8882 6727
https://instagram.com/bmstoltenkamp
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