When a restaurant is housed in my favourite hotel chain, I expect quite a lot. Azur by Mauro Colagreco has a lot to live up to, considering Chef Mauro's Minazur on the French Riviera has been in the worlds50best restaurants since its debut in 2009 and currently occupies the number one position and is the proud holder of 3 Michelin stars. Of course a brunch experience is not the same as dinner, but I believed, as I walked in to Azur, that it should nonetheless give me a good glimpse into the heart and soul of Azur. Situated in the fairly new Valley Wing of Shangri-la, the entrance ensures that you don't get that feeling that you are in a big hotel - there is no lobby to speak of really. So, how did my experience go?
Brunch Concept
In-keeping with its status as a fine dining restaurant - there is seating for around 60-75 people - Azur offers a set menu for brunch, with considerable choice, ensuring a fairly personalized brunch afternoon. I am a frequent bruncher (not sure there is such a word) in Beijing and I have not seen a high end restaurant that really caters for vegetarian diners the way they do here. Both the appetizer and main course offers a well thought out vegetarian option. All in all, 6 courses.
The Dishes
A bread basket with the restaurant's signature home made lemon jam is served followed by the Seafood course. My thoughts are interrupted by awareness of pulsating jazz in the background. Nice!
The seafood course, ideally designed for two with a more stunning presentation, proves the adage that sometimes an elaborate presentation can indeed be misleading. The single serving presentation is simple indeed. Conversely, I am really impressed with the quality on offer. You know, I’ve seen large seafood towers served that look incredible but end up being what I call, Instagram dishes. The seafood course here, in contrast, is evocative and serves it primary purpose rather well - transporting the guest to the sea. The Fine de Claire number 4s really surprise me and set the tone for a really memorable seafood course. These oysters, in short, pack a lot of flavour and restaurants that have the big is better mantra need to take note.P, especially in Beijing. I would much rather have a smaller oyster that checks all the boxes than an oversized oyster that is good only for its visual appeal. It is interesting to note that the restaurant has 4 choices of oysters on its a la carte menu, but the ones served at brunch are by no means second rate. Two more highlights from the selection were undoubtedly the scallops and clams. All in all, an excellent brunch seafood course.
Next, The Appetiser course is a celebration of classic dishes. Three appetizers stylishly presented on black stone with Iberico ham flanked on either side by Foie gras and Beef carpaccio. The latter is simple - beef carpaccio with olive oil, parmagiano and a bit of rucola, while the Iberico ham is served on toasted brioche, a la bruschetta, with a delightful basil explosion. Finally, the foie gras is placed on a brioche, with a softer toasted texture to the brioche used for the Iberico ham, and cherry compote to bring out the obvious sweet and sour element of the dish. I would gladly take full sizes of any of these appetisers. It is really hard not to love this course.
The intermediate or soup course is as simple as it is delicious - Corn soup, one of two soup options on the day. Yes, there is something very humble about corn soup but Chef manages to bring to the table some elegance and homeliness all at once. It triggers previous experiences of corn soup, be that in a simple restaurants or at home. The soup is poured table side, allowing for theatre and the elegance and style alluded to above. In the end, thanks to fresh corn and other textured vegetables, the soup has a lovely antithesis of smooth and crunchy. Simple is beautiful.
For my main course, I am torn between the halibut and the black cod, but opt for the latter. It is served in the same china you will find at Chef Mauro's Minazur, clearly showing the bond between the restaurants. In fact, I am thrilled with the china used during brunch. It being a Shangri-la property, I was expecting Narumi but at Azur they use Noritake - the small things that make such a difference to one's experience. Fantastic!
The dish itself is a beautiful Summer dish. Memories of a day at the beach with the overwhelming presence of the sea, with the sounds of children laughter and beach balls going to and fro. Happiness. It is such a dish. The black cod flakes perfectly, always a good sign that the cod has not been over cooked. The cod, rather fittingly, swims in a creamy sauce with present but not over-powering lime, while baby vegetables, highlighted by white mushrooms, provide colour and added texture. It is both pretty and marvelous at the same time. An excellent choice.
Finally, dessert, turns out to be an ocassion thanks to its three tier afternoon tea style presentation. The top tier has the usual French pastries while the second one has some fresh fruit. However, it is the bottom tier that most excites me - well, in theory. The Crepe suzette. The problem, though, is unless it is flambéed tableside, it is pretty much just a dessert instead of an event. I am told that it had been done the traditional way the previous week. It is a pity. Inconsistent. It has, nonetheless, given me a reason to want to return soon!
The Drinks
There are essentially two drinks packages. I opted for the champagne package featuring Veuve Clicquot NV. After all, a brunch with no bubbles is just lunch. To add a bit of fun to my experience, I asked for some orange juice ... yes, that’s right - mimosas. I still think this is the easiest and most enjoyable champagne cocktail that is to brunch what a full moon is to a romantic evening - essential. There is also a wine option with two offerings by Los Altos, namely a Sauvignon Blanc and a Cabernet Sauvignon. With Chef Mauro’s South American background, I am thrilled to see these Chilean wines served. French would have been too clichéd and obvious. I request a glass of the Sauvignon Blanc which goes beautifully with the oysters. I also find the red to be a most suitable match for my appetizers. I believe that the champagne package should really include the wine as well. Some things just pair better with wine. Thankfully restaurant manager Fred is very flexible and understands. I do like it when managers are sensible like this. After all, the more wine a guest has, the less champagne he or she has which means money saved for the restaurant.
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Verdict
Exceptional dishes beautifully cooked. I cannot fault the kitchen and kudos to Sous Chef in charge, Chef Deepak for overseeing the kitchen. Every course with its individual dishes were well thought out and finely executed. Secondly, with the pricing here it is hard to believe this restaurant is housed in a Shangri-La property. Hotel food is grossly over priced in Beijing with the excuse that it is imported that is not often the case I think restaurants should have a balance between imported and locally produced food. At 818RMB net, this is a brunch that offers amazing value for money. Did I mention that the service charge is included? I cannot get over that. Bear in mind it is a high end brunch but I have seen competitors go as high as 1100RMB for a brunch with a similar concept. There is no other set brunch in the city that offers Veuve Clicquot champagne for 3 and a half hours accompanied by dishes like these. Finally, clearing up some inconsistencies in service and smoothing some rough edges will ensure that Azure by Mauro Colagreco will compete on all fronts for the best brunch in the city.overall, a brunch I will definitely try again because it’s varied menu, kitchen and value for money provide very good balance.
Azur by Mauro Colagreco
Shangri-La Hotel, Beijing
Phone: +86 10 8882 6727 Email: azur.slb@shangri-la.com
Timing: Saturday and Sunday 11.30-15.00
Pricing: Food 518RMB, Food & Wine 698RMB, Food & Veuve Clicquot Champagne 818 net
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