Molto bene! Brunch at Il Ristorante by Niko Romito - Bvlgari Hotel, Beijing

Il Ristorante by Niko Romito, the Michelin starred restaurant in Bvlgari Hotel, Beijing, has been the setting for one of my most loved brunches in the city ever since my first visit in October 2019. Sadly, the last year has seen me unable to visit Beijing because of Covid restrictions there or in neighbouring Tianjin. However, it was such a thrill when I was able to make my way to there recently, green codes and NAT in hand, to visit  a brunch that sits firmly in my top 2 brunches in Beijing. 

1. Don't fix it if it works

The brunch concept is a simple one. This table brunch features a set menu that is tweaked every week but the overall concept remains the same. This is a concept that has been in place since June 2020 and it seems to have worked well. So, why change it, right? Seeing Paul Cui, restaurant manager, serves as a reminder of my happy visit last time. Deep down we all want to be remembered! 

Brunch starts off with a seafood platter featuring caviar,  lobster, smoked salmon, shrimp and marinated amberjack, all served on ice. The caviar is what gives the brunch an immediate feeling of luxury, but it is the lobster that excites me most. Kudos to chef for serving it as a salad and not in the shell. I know the latter presentation is what gets likes on social media, but I for one do not like having to work hard on my food at a brunch. Moreover, it is perfectly cooked, allowing that beautiful sweetness to come through effortlessly. 

The canapé course remains very similar to what I have had before, but I am not going to say no to that nicely textured bruschetta and also the cold duck carpaccio with paté. Lastly, the very slow cooked egg with potato and truffle is just sensational. While this is a staple at high end restaurants serving brunch, this combination is not. Nice indeed!

The pasta course is accompanied by a special request. As good as the standard pasta offerings are, it is the ravioli that gets me excited (special  requests for a bill supplement). In Tianjin, my choices for ravioli are limited, so this is a real treat. Both the potato and pumpkin ravioli, the former with a delightful caviar and cream sauce, are just heavenly. I would not mind paying for a full portion of both of these. Well done Chef! 

By the time my main courses are served, I am already quite full. The portion sizes of all dishes are spot on, allowing one to experience a range of dishes. Both the lamb and beef are stand out dishes. The lamb, with fava beans, is proof once again that fine ingredients speak for themselves and do not need elaborate trimmings. The same can be said about the wagyu beef. It is well cooked that it retained its structure while having that so-called 'break apart easily in your mouth feel'. Again, well done to the chefs who prepared these. 

Lastly, dessert. While the tiramisu is rather non-descript, the crème caramel (as opposed to a crème brûlée which has a caramelised top) is just so deliciously decadent I lap it up. The contrast of flavour with the strawberry is such a simple but striking highlight. Then, I also enjoy the profiterole, creatively presented. I believe you will love the dessert options, which it must be said, rotate every week to keep things interesting! 

I loved the fact that I could liaise with Executive Chef Stefano Nicodemo in advance through email and wechat. It personalises the experience for the guest and I think it is a mark of a restaurant where the chef is open to creating a tailored experience for the guest or at least checking on dietary issues. On the day of brunch, Chef de cuisine Daniele Ferrari visited my table to connect. It was heartwarming listening to his most recent trip home, his first in 3 years. The truth is that guests appreciate this because dinner or brunch are a lot more than food and drink. They are about the the human touch.  Kudos to Chef Stefano and his kitchen team! 

2. A luxurious brunch

Housed in the Bvlgari Hotel, in one of the top 5 truly luxury hotels in Beijing, you cannot help but feel the luxury. It also means you will probably encounter some guests who use brunch as a purely a  social media occasion to to name drop online without touching many of the dishes, but ignore them.  The origin of ingredients supports the idea of a brunch that tries to give guests the best within reason. Boston lobster, Australian wagyu and New Zealand lamb are just some of the fine ingredients used. Champagne is served in Zwiesel 1872 glasses, with bread and smaller dishes served in Narumi and Dibbern fine china respectively. Of course, Bvlgari- branded silverware and a gorgeous range of likewise branded fine china completes that feeling of money well spent for an afternoon of luxury. 

3. Champagne please!

Of course, brunch is never complete without champagne. Despite their efforts to make brunch synonymous with cosmopolitans and mimosas, the Sex and the city girls would concede that champagne is to brunch what Shakespeare is to love sonnets - they are inextricably linked. For today's brunch, I opt for the mid-range drinks option that includes a champagne, sparkling wine and a couple of wines. 

On the floor I was thrilled to see hotel sommelier Tommy Wong taking care of drinks. It is his awareness of the little details that I appreciate in my interaction with him. 

The brunch offers the exquisite Ca'del Bosco Cuvée Prestige Brut, Franciacorta DOCG, a sparkling wine deemed to be Italy's answer to champagne, which is harsh as I consider it to be better than many champagnes I have had. It is elegant, full of finesse and blessed with a rich mousse. You can expect typical notes that you would associate with a beautiful champagne. I also indulge in the Perrier-Jouët Blanson Rosé NV Brut. It is a delightful choice and I for one appreciate the delicate bubbles. It is a classy champagne for a brunch at that price. Overall, the Bvlgari brunch drinks package is now the best in the city both in terms of value for money and quality of options. 

Verdict

While the service appears to be a work in progress - it was not as intuitive and faultless as it has been in the past - this remains a brunch that is an essential part of any one's Beijing visit. While it is pricey, it is more than just the food and drinks here. It is an experience.For that price, there is no other brunch I would recommend but this one. With only 70 seats in this Michelin restaurant,  a curated menu where less is more is the guiding philosophy, you are in for a memorable 2 1/2 hours. Highly recommended. 

Essentials

Ristorante by Niko Romito

Bvlgari Hotel,

Beijing

86 (10) 8555 8555

Sunday Brunch

Food 688 RMB

Cocktails 298 RMB

Perrier-Jouët Rosé, Ca’del Bosco Franciacorta, 2  wines 398 RMB

Premium champagne 990 RMB

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut, Perrier-Jouët Blanc de Blancs

Closest subway Liangmaqiao Line 10

Exit D -  a leisurely 10 minute walk. 

Brandon Stoltenkamp