A little gem in Tianjin - Habuka The Butcher / Steak&Wine 羽深肉铺

After two recommendations, I finally visited Habuka The Butcher, and I must say, it was about time. It is a simple concept - the ground floor is where a deli meets a wineshop, while the second floor is the restaurant where I was greeted by a small space with 8 tables. Low ceilings and wooden floors add that French bistro feel to the place, with the by-the glass wine prices written in chalk. This is what I got even before being seated. After my visit, these thoughts stayed with me. 

1. Wine

Fantastic selection. The by-the glass wines offer tremendous choice from a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to a couple of local offerings to the old world favourites from France and Italy. Not only do they offer variety, but there is excellent quality at very affordable prices. I tried a Chinese Cabernet Sauvignon which I thoroughly enjoyed. I was allowed to taste it before buying it and what I appreciated was the ritual of the wine tasting glass being brought to me - drinking is not just about the inherent quality of a label. It is the process leading up to the first sip. In addition to these options, their full bottle selection is also impressive and sustainable - many a restaurant can have expensive wines on a wine list but are guests actually buying them? The premium wines here, I feel, are also well priced for that special occasion. 

However, being a lover of all things bubbly, I was thrilled to see a small but again, well priced choice of sparkling. The most exciting label for me, though, was the Ca'del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvee Prestige Brut. At 491 yuan, you are getting this beautiful Italian sparkling at a fabulous price. But more than that, there are not many venues in Tianjin or even Beijing for that matter where you can get this under-appreciated wine. 

2. Menu

There is much to love about the menu at Habuka The Butcher. Notwithstanding the seemingly imposing menu, when you open it, you will see that it is fairly succinct. Restaurants often feel that having a lot of choices is a reflection of a good restaurant. I see that as a weakness, especially in a smallish restaurant. When I see too many dishes on offer, it makes me wonder how a small kitchen can be skilled enough to make all the dishes well. I had no such concerns here though. Hence, for me, less is more. If you love beef, you will enjoy it here. It is great to see reasonably priced M5 beef on the menu.I ordered Marennes Oléron oysters on the half shell, Fine de Claire I guess. I liked that I could watch them being shucked. I politely asked my shucker not to rinse mine after he had shucked them - to remove any sediment I asked him just to move his fingers on the edge. In the end, nicely shucked. 3 oysters for around 100 yuan? I like it. 

Of course, I also had the foie gras pate. It was served at the perfect temperature. While I found the carrot garnish odd as an accompaniment, the chunky fig compote was just perfect. Finally, I had the Heilongjiang beef tartar. I was surprised by the quality of the beef and would gladly try this beef as a steak. Ona. side note, I must admit that I missed capers and multi grain mustard in my tartar. There are of course different ways to prepare this classic. However, overall, I enjoyed it immensely and will most defintely order it again. 

3. Ambience and Service

The restaurant is cosy, as you would expect from a restaurant with only 8 tables. Two small windows provide the only natural light here, so expect a bit of low key lighting, adding to the homely feeling. There is a real bustle with staff moving swiftly to take orders and serve dishes. This is part of the atmosphere. There is quite a quick turnover  of guests. In my 2 1/2 hours there, I saw quite a few tables emptied to be replaced quickly by new guests. This place is popular! Lastly, the service slips under the radar almost too easily because it is done without fuss. It is timely, attentive and even with my limited Chinese, staff were able to meet my expectations - yes, you will be challenged as staff do not speak English, but with a menu and technology what it is, you do not have to be lost in translation. 

Verdict

I am thrilled that this restaurant is still undiscovered it seems. The lack of signage gives it that hole-in-the-wall character, something I find very endearing. The restaurant does not lack in clientele, based on the difficulty friends of mine had getting a booking. It is so refreshing at a time when hospitality has been ravaged by Covid, that there are places that are constantly fully booked, especially in little Tianjin. 

In the end, my bill amounted to around 400 yuan which included a 100 yuan corkage fee for a bottle of cava I brought along - I informed them in advance. However, with such a value for money wine list, I am unlikely to do this again. I don't think it is premature to say that this is now one of my favourite two restaurants in the city and I can't wait to return.

Habuka The Butcher 羽深肉铺

Commonly known here as Steak&Wine

187 Xiochengd Road,

Heping,

Tianjin.

I: Bmstoltenkamp