A super luxe Sunday brunch at N’Joy at Nuo Hotel, Beijing

CHECK Important Drinks Edit At below: 22/05/2021

When I arrived at Nuo Hotel for Sunday brunch at N'Joy, I felt pleased that I dressed up a bit. We have lost that, haven't we? Everything is jeans and  a t-shirt or  a cap to cover unkept hair. I love that people dress up here, but not in a gaudy and showy kind of way. There is an understated elegance about the guests here, something I find refreshing. It is all part of a civilized brunch culture out for a big and  lavish brunch experience. Turning my attention to the actual brunch, how did it fare? After my decadent, opulent but not ostentatious afternoon, I had but one word for the brunch...

Thanks to the smart layout of the restaurant, you never get the feeling that you are in a  massive restaurant with hordes of people gathering around the proverbial trough -  a perception naysayers have about big buffets. In fact, from where I was seated, there was a wing of seats and tables removed from my brunch experience, so when I went to the buffet stations, I was not overwhelmed with people. 

The plate

I am pretty sure there are stations I missed on my brunch visit, such is the sheer variety on offer. However, in terms of the classic items I look for at a  brunch, all boxes were checked. Firstly, a welcome starter of caviar sets the tone for what is to follow. Then, a walk to the the Cold station, where the gorgeous, deep orange colour of Canadian lobster catches one's eye so easily. The emphasis on quality is evident from my first bite. It is meaty, juicy and flavoursome. Well done to the chefs who oversaw the preparation. It is so easy to Then, there are the Moana oysters from New Zealand, known for their deep shells and sweet salty quality. I had 1/2 dozen, each one perfectly shucked and retained its liquor beautifully. Kudos to the shucking team. There is no substitute for good seafood. This is something that is clearly evident when you visit the seafood station here. While many  buffet brunches can boast about having seafood, how many can compete with the sheer quality of ingredients on offer here? There is foie gras, albeit served in a very underwhelming manner. It is good but can be so much better. Did I mention the New Zealand lamb and Angus beef? 

Two other stations that stood out are the Japanese and Indian stations. The latter is given a huge open space where it served up 6 dishes. Two tandoors ensured that chicken tikka was made live, while pre-cooked dishes like all Indian foreigner classics were there: dal makhani, butter chicken, biryani, rogan josh and palak paneer. Over and above these, there was also naan, mango lassi and finally, and this I really appreciated - 15 pickle/sides that while served at other brunches, usually amount to 4 or 5 choices. Well done to Chef Hareesh and his team for an exceptional offering. The same is true of the Japanese station. While the sashimi offering is surprisingly limited, the choice of Japanese pickles and two kinds of ginger that provide that often overlooked but necessary component to a Japanese experience at a brunch. 

Brunch is of course about theatre and there is no shortage at N'Joy. Two chefs sliced a generously sized yellow fin tuna while guests grabbed their phones to capture it. Once cut up, the tuna made its way onto guests' plates. Lastly, and as much visually appealing as the slicing of that tuna, was the Middle Eastern dish, a variation of kabsa, which is lamb slow cooked and served on a bed of spiced rice. The lamb, incredibly tender, was served up by the restaurant's Arabic Food chef, a Syrian national,  in traditional garb, accentuated by the red and white ghutrah. What a surprise it was to see this dish as part of the buffet. Moreover, it served as  a microcosm of the unexpected variety that the restaurant offers. I encourage you to arrive with expectations and I can assure you that you will have those very expectations surpassed! 

Finally, the pass arounds. Now, for me, this is an essential element in a  buffet brunch because it provides that surprise factor. Unlike a set menu brunch, there is no element of surprise here because once you walk around the buffet, you know what to expect. But with pass arounds, as a guest you see the trolley and wonder, 'Mmmm, what is that?' I counted at least 6 pass arounds, unless I missed something. Hard not to love this brunch!

Foie gras with glazed balsamic

Apple tatin

The glass

Bubbly, I believe, is what makes brunch what it is. Otherwise, it is just lunch, isn't it? That is my cliché, so I am allowed to use it. Free flow beverages can be the scourge of a restaurant and account for the biggest percentage of their outlay. N'Joy  has done the unprecedented thing of offering 5 champagnes for guests to choose from. I know of two other restaurants that offer 3 champagnes, but 5 is beautifully insane. In addition to the excellent Perrier Jouet Brut NV, perennial brunch favourite  Veuve Clicquot Brut NV of course seemed to be the most popular but I was quite happy to stay with Deutz Brut NV,  a champagne that had me reveling in its delicious mousse and fairly long lasting bubbles. 

There was also a new experience for me when I tried the Alfred Gratien Brut Rosé , one of only two free flowing rosé champagnes at a brunch in the city. It is actually a pretty good option and made for a lovely aperitif. Its high Chardonnay content really makes it a lovely brunch champagne. Finally, there is also the Alfred Gratien Brut NV, which unfortunately I did not get to try. First world problems, right?

There are also two other packages. There is an entry level red ad white wine deal for 128++, featuring Australian Bloomsbury wines, a Shiraz and a Chardonnay. Finally, at 158++ there is a sparkling wine package featuring Chandon - I think this is an excellent sparkling wine with surprising depth. I have had many a brunch elsewhere sipping on this under rated bubbly. 

If the drinks packages are not enough to highlight the classy nature of the brunch, free flowing Voss water adds an exclamation point. I refuse to pay some of the ridiculous prices that brunches charge for premium water and am usually content with the standard lemon water, so it is such a pleasure being able to enjoy high end branded water as part of the brunch experience. This is the only brunch I have been to in the city where this is the case. 

*EDIT: Sadly, champagne free flow discontinued from May 23, replaced by per bottle concept, at an additional 298-368RMB for each of the champagnes mentioned here. The brunch now offers a Chandon sparkling wine free flow package at 298RMB. 

The service

Service starts before I arrive at a brunch. I made an effortless booking about three weeks earlier. Upon arriving and being shown to my seat, it was immediately obvious what a high staff to guest ratio the brunch boasted. The Assistant F and B Director greeted guests on arrival, chefs were aplenty and waiting staff were everywhere to be seen. In fact, even the Group Culinary Director served guests throughout brunch! On another note, one of my pet hates is how staff can disappear around the time brunch is about to end and you are left with an empty glass or an uncleared table. I have to say, service remained at a very high level right up to the point I left. Now, that is service.

My section was looked after by Sophia and Alvin, two wonderful associates who brought such strength to their service of guests. Intuitive service is not something I take for granted in Beijing. Between the two of them though, they topped up guests' drinks without prompting as well changing cutlery when needed. These are two seemingly little things but they can make or break a guest's brunch afternoon. Sophia, finally, had this ability to keep her eyes on other guests while tending to me, but never making me feel I was not important as a customer. I saw her replicate this with so many guests. I believe this is so important because when you spend  a bit  of money on a  brunch, shouldn't you feel like a prince or princess for at least three hours? 

Verdict

Wow! That is it. Just one word. Is there room for improvement? Oh definitely, but then we are talking about taking an excellent brunch to an even higher level. This brunch has it all -  a jovial vibe, bubbly and more bubbly, more choices of dishes than at a United Nations conference and very importantly, service that is absolutely on cue. One of my dictums in life that I try to embrace is 'less is more' which is what makes me gravitate towards set menu brunches, but the brunch at N'Joy shows that by having as many premium ingredients as I came across (and to be fair, there are many stations I did not try), you can still have a huge spread and maybe, just maybe, more can be more. Over and above everything mentioned, the restaurant delivers on what it promises and that is a lavish afternoon that paradoxically ensures value for money despite being the most expensive buffet brunch in Beijing. Rather than going to two moderately priced brunches a month, maybe just go to one like this? Yes, from this perspective, less is more. But it is indeed so much more at N'Joy. 

Details

N'Joy Restaurant

Nuo Hotel

Chaoyang District

+86 10 5926 8888

Brunch

Food 545 RMB

Champagne 308++

Sparkling 158++

Wine 128++

Sundays 11h30-14h30 Drinks service. Buffet closes at 15h00

Getting there

Line 14, Jiangtai station, Exit A. 

Walk about 10 minutes. 

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