Relaunched Brunch at Il Ristorante by Niko Romito, Bvlgari Hotel, Beijing


Food and Beverage in Beijing, like elsewhere, has been through a challenging time the last 4 months with Covid-19 but the last month has seen restaurants bouncing back, using the transition time as an opportunity to look at how it has been doing things. While I do not think we have seen the last of buffets, some restaurants have re-emerged and come back with new concepts. This restaurant is no different. 

Concept
Bvlgari Hotel's Michelin starred Il Ristorante by Niko Romito has emerged with a new brunch concept. Gone are the buffet and pass-arounds. The restaurant has also cancelled its Saturday brunch, focusing all its energy on a single weekly brunch to be served Sunday. Significantly,  a set menu now greets guests when they sit down for brunch. It has been an impressive start in that the first 3 brunches have all had new menus. No doubt the cycle will repeat at some point, but I like the commitment to efforts to create a new guest experience as often as possible. 



The Menu

There are basically 4 courses, but do not be fooled by that. The starter is very generous, with a  seafood platter followed by antipasti. The seafood platter is tastefully done. While it is designed as a sharing concept which makes for impressive instagram pics, I actually liked the appearance of my single portion. In many ways, it conveys the brunch concept which is less is more. New Zealand lobster and surprisingly good salmon from the East China sea, Spanish shrimp and of course Bvlgari branded caviar complete the seafood starter. I should say that although the lobster was nicely cooked, it just lacked the delicate flavourful qualities associated with, say, Canadian lobster. I for one missed that subtle sweetness. With regards to the caviar, from my last post, you will recall that the caviar is actually very good, produced by Kaluga Queen, China's very successful foray into the world of high cuisine. In closing, I am looking forward to oysters being included in the platter. By the way, a small touch like warm blinis was not lost on me and I really appreciated it. 


The antipasti is ... let us put it this way: I would pay for that on its own because it is so good. In addition to the cold cuts which include the usual parma ham on melon, make sure you have the focaccia. Now, I'm not a  'bread at brunch person' but the latter is perfectly proportioned. Together with the decadent Carma-branded olive oil, it is a celebration of simplicity. Another highlight was the burrata - obviously! Again, it is about taking the simple and elevating it. Finally, oh the Vitello tonnato - this northwestern Italian dish from Piedmont had me asking Chef for another. I should tell you that the ocean and earth are separated for a reason and I avoid dishes that try to join them on the plate. Until today. Veal and tuna are brought together in a  mayonnaise-like sauce packed with capers and tuna flavours - the joy of this dish is how despite the marriage of the two, the tastes are so distinct. Absolutely beautiful. 


For the pasta course, I forewent  the Seafood Mista Pasta and have just the Spinach and ricotta cannelloni. I simply do not like mista pasta. I think I love that pasta has its own identity. I think there are over 300 different types of pasta - I like to keep them separate.  By the time the mains were served, I was already quite satisfied from an experiential point of view. I was also close to being satiated. This is the irony when it comes to set menu brunches. Not only is less more from a qualitative perspective, but also from, to put it bluntly, a feeling full perspective. Beijing has a newly developed  fine dining culture, nowhere as sophisticated as Shanghai, so it is all about educating diners  at brunch - just because you don't see a lot of food does not mean you will leave hungry! That is so unpoetic, but true. 

The new concept introduced by Chef de Cuisine Gabriele Delgrossi and his culinary team gives him control in so many ways. I for one, love it. When I spend 300RMB on a brunch, I don't mind a buffet. It is fun. But in a Michelin restaurant housed in  this hotel,  I want  a tasting menu. Chef has got it right. In our brief chat, I could sense how much happier he is with the concept. I am also thrilled for him and his team - this allows the chef to express him or herself on every plate that goes out.




On the day, tasting portions of Sea bream, Veal served with pizzaiola sauce and mash potatoes, a delicious Pork belly and Octopus infused with lemon were served. The high point for me was the sea bream with all its typical Mediterranean flavours. 



Drinks

The drinks package remains an impressive one and offers great value for money. The premium package gives one access to not only a range of 4 cocktails including Aperol Spritz, Gin and Tonic and of course Negroni, but also 2 wines and 2 champagnes. I found it interesting to see two wines from Bvlgari's own Tuscan vineyards on the menu. While they failed to inspire me, it is clever extending of the brand to wine which started when Giovanni Bulgari abandoned the jewelry making area to focus on wines. In the end, I stayed with the bubbles. The Perrier-Jouet Rosé  is a wonderful champagne. I did share with management my disappointment at no longer seeing the stellar Franciacorta Ca del Bosco Cuvee Prestige and more than decent Ferrari range of bubbles  on offer - I think a strong Italian label is indeed needed. I was satisfied with the explanation offered. Let us see how it goes. Overall, though, the brunch has the most balanced drinks package I have had at a  brunch in the city. Kudos to Paul, the in-house sommelier and the F&B team. You can read what I had to say about the drinks menu on my last visit here: Brunch visit 2019


Service

Service was slick and efficient and yet with heart. This is an essential balance because it ensures that brunch is relaxed. This is something I commented on on a recent visit to high end brunch - just because an establishment is fine and luxurious does not mean service should be stuffy. Restaurant manager Darren Wang, who did a sterling job checking on his guests,  has a team  that embrace the same mantra. I had the pleasure of being waited on by Christina who brought to my table a blend of product knowledge, humour and professionalism. As for the drinks service, I think we all hate it when we have to wait for a drink at brunch. However, staff were alert and between Paul and Christina, drinks were routinely topped up. 





Verdict

Sunday Brunch at Il Ristorante by Niko Romito has adopted a concept that meshes in superbly well with its Michelin starred status and setting. Buffets work for some restaurants and not so well for others. For this restaurant, they do not work as well as the tasting / set menu idea.  In terms of aspects of the brunch to think about, looking back at the old brunch, one of the strengths of the pass-arounds was that they allowed chefs to interact with guests, making for the best sought of feedback. Incidentally, that is how met Chef Gabriele the last time I tried brunch. I would like to see Chefs on the floor in an organic, natural way. I think that interaction brings the kitchen to the table on so many levels. Secondly, I find the timing from 11.30-2pm a bit annoying because a hotel does not lose much by extending it for an extra 30 minutes but what it gives the guest is an even more laid back experience without clock watching. On another note, I think a revisit of the music playlist that strikes a balance between the restaurant brand and the fact that it is brunch and not dinner will be a great way to add to the atmosphere. 

Overall, brunch has really been taken up a notch thanks to its concept. Fine Italian dishes with a homeliness about them matched by a very good drinks package make for a brunch that I believe will hit the right note with guests. 


The lowdown

Il Ristorante by Niko Romito Brunch,
Bvlgari Hotel Beijing
86 (10) 8555 8555

Sunday 
Set Menu 618 
Free flow of Cocktails 268
Free flow of  Veuve Cliquot and Perrier Jouet Rose  and Cocktails 398

Getting there
Subway Line 10 Liangmaqiao
Exit D - 6 minute walk. 




Brandon Stoltenkamp
https://instagram.com/bmstoltenkamp/

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