Teatro comes to Muscat - a Sundus Rotana restaurant, Muscat
From a rocky start with a concept that had all sorts of issues for me, to a deeper understanding of the role a restaurant like, Teatro has evolved. I remember trying Teatro in Dubai about 4 years ago and I just did not get how you could have so many cuisines on one menu, when it is not all day dining. But then I tried the one in Abu Dhabi and my mind opened up, culminating in a visit to the excellent Teatro in Bahrain - it was then that I got it! Within this context, accompanied by my daughter, I was thrilled to be invited to Teatro at Sundus Rotana, Muscat's first Rotana hotel.
After my experience, there are a few thoughts I want to share.
Theatre
The key for Teatro is how believable it is as a concept that makes you feel you are going to be entertained, that you are going out; to the theatre. On the ground floor is a red carpet leading to an elevator that takes you exclusively to the restaurant. Red is the colour motif of the restaurant, a colour that hits you square on as the hostess, elegantly clad in a red one piece, greets as the elevator opens. The show is about to begin. On the walls to on side of the restaurant are black and white prints of some screen gods and goddesses, including Audrey Hepburn, of course. Next, large lights, recalling lights use in stage/movie productions are at the centre of the restaurant. Finally, the restaurant boasts the largest open kitchen of all Teatros I have been to. Drama. Theatre.
Cocktails and drinks
Teatro is known for its succinct but excellent Asian inspired cocktails. On the night, I have the Tiffin Punch, a drink that recalls a lunch box in India - a must have. On the wine side, the restaurant boasts, in typical Rotana fashion, 22 by the glass wines. However, I must say that you will be surprised by some of the labels on the list like a Lebanese red from Ksara and a delightful New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region, Kim Crawford. Incidentally, also from the same neck of the woods, is a Pinot Gris.
A concept for all palates
For those not familiar with the concept, the expansive menu features Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Italian and Indian dishes. If none of these satisfy your craving, there are dishes with more international flavour also available. Our choice of dishes reflected that diversity on the menu. Mitsuki started with the Mixed Asian platter, with samosas, Wasabi prawn tempura and Duck spring rolls. I started with the Burrata, classically done but with the addition of caper tapenade that adds a bit of flavour to the usually mild flavoured burrata!
Any experience at Teatro must include sushi. In all their branches, it is something that is consistently done - in fairness I have not tried Teatro in Doha. Again, we were happy. The unagi maki, especially, was fantastic. A note on the sashimi, by the way - fresh. There is often a stickiness and chewiness about sashimi in some restaurants because it clearly lacks freshness and has been badly defrosted, but our sashimi selection had a beautiful colour about it, another sign that it was fresh.
For our main dishes, we had the Australian Lamb loin , cooked in a flavoursome jus that has a bit of mild sweetness about it. I recommend you request, as I did, for it to be cooked medium rare. However, it was a bit unevenly cooked in places, but overall, a good dish. We also have the Tandoor Chicken tikka - this is perfectly cooked. For anyone who has not had chicken done in the tandoor - a type of clay oven from northern India - he/she must try it. In addition to the marination, there was a charred flavour it was imbued with. I regret, in retrospect, not ordering the tandoor naan. Make sure you do not make the same mistake.
The mother of all desserts - the big show. It is worth going just for this. |
Teatro brings to Muscat something unique. It is a very exciting restaurant in the context of the Muscat market. Is there theatre? Yes. Is there drama? Yes. Does the restaurant, through its decor and design convey a sense of show? Again, yes. Are there still a few challenges regarding getting all waiting staff to engage guests? Oh definitely. But to call it a work in progress would be unfair. It is true that Teatro as of the day of my visit, March 24, had only been open a few weeks, but they have reached a stage where they are actually running well, guests seem to enjoy their night out, so the future looks very good. I cannot wait to bring some friends from Abu Dhabi. The 6 hour drive is totally worth it.
Essentials
Teatro
Sundus Hotel,
Al Maardih Street
Muscat
+968 24 511800
Sundus Rotana
Average cost Dinner for 2 excl drinks - 45 Omani Riyals
Brandon Stoltenkamp
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