It had been just a year since my last visit to Il Ristorante by Niko Romito for brunch Last Brunch visit - a combination of factors that included me relocating to another province and various Covid restrictions in that time. Be that as it may, a taxi, high speed train, subway and a 10 minute walk brought me back to brunch. On my mind I had two questions - 1. To what extent have they been able to sustain their initial vision of a menu that changes every week? 2. How have their drinks packages evolved or in fact devolved over the last year?
Menu
In the run up to brunch, I had seen a loot of pics online about the brunch, allowing me to cast my mind back a year ago when I had a word with Alex, the hotel's F&B Director about the feasibility of changing the brunch menu every week - I did not think they could sustain it. However, as I looked at the menu for the day, I noticed it was already quite different from what I had seen online. Of course, it is not always wholesale changes - why reinvent champagne when it has already been done, right? On the contrary though, it is all about making sufficient changes so that repeat guests, to put it bluntly, don't get bored. So, it is indeed feasible. I have found this to be an issue for me at two of my favourite brunches in the city where after one visit, there are no more surprises. I think this is where the team here is so smart. The nature of a typical Italian menu allows for variations - antipasti, pasta, fish and then even your beef can be played around with. Towards the end of my brunch, I asked Executive Chef Stefano about the omission of certain dishes I expected and he said they had served them in previous weeks. Beautiful. It makes me want to come back sooner than I normally would and it adds a bit of excitement to the day, not knowing if it will be burrata or mozzarella, for example!
The highlight of the Seafood platter is a reflection of the creative way Chef and his team are able to change the menu without losing the soul of it - instead of the usual lobster, there is a lobster salad with the best tomatoes I have had this season. Nicely done. There is the usual antipasti - it is more functional than memorable. As for the mixed pasta, honestly, I am not a fan, regardless of the accompaniment. Chef is kind enough to cede to my request for a simple peperoncino, with chili flakes in lieu of fresh chili. It illustrates the simplicity and beauty of Italian cuisine. Bravo! A nice a surprise is the serving of Earl Grey tea which served as palate cleanser after this pasta dish. I must say, my old cliché about how the little things make a difference was again in evidence here. Next, a little and unexpected gem turned out to be the low temperature egg. I could have that again!
With regards to the main courses, my favourite of the day was undoubtedly the Guangdong chicken for two reasons - one, the flavours were spot on with olives and capers not an obvious choice to go with chicken. Secondly, it was local. Sustainability for me is a big deal when it comes to brunches and supporting local, provided it is good enough, is an obvious way to do just that. Lastly, my second fave of 4 main courses was the beef tenderloin - an uncomplicated dish with a homeliness about it. Nicely cooked. Now, I would like to mention the halibut in closing - deep fried halibut. What a great idea and how beautifully executed, but rather than seek variety, it needs to be served with chips every time. Fish and chips is a real classic and brings an element of fun to dining at Bvlgari - what is more fun than fries and ketchup? Classics never get boring.
Well done to the culinary team for a menu that is filling and offers variety, even though I was not thrilled seeing salmon as a cold and warm dish. Also, I feel the portions are perfect and to be fair, there were three dishes I could not finish because I was just too full.
Drinks
On my last visit, I waxed lyrically about the champagne package even though I was not totally sold on the package because its best Italian sparkling offering was easily eclipsed by the two champagnes offered. Then, the Bellavista Franciacorta Alma Brut NV was offered alongside Veuve Clicquot NV and the Perrier Jouét Rosé NV. On this visit, I was absolutely thrilled that the Italian riposte to champagne was now part of the package again. The exceptional Franciacorta Ca'del Bosco Cuveé Prestige had been restored to its rightful place. Less is definitely more and despite the absence of the Veuve, I think this drinks line up is more impressive now. A fine Italian restaurant should have a sparkling option that reflects it and the Ca'del Bosco does exactly that - classy, stylish, understated and oozing elegance. It may not have instant recognition to a local market more familiar with commercial or over priced champagnes, I for one am beside myself! Personally, I would choose this over Veuve every time.
However, I perused the menu once more and noticed that the Premium package offers my favourite NV champagne...how shall I describe it? Magical? Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV, from the oldest Champagne house. Despite my joy to be having the Ca'del Bosco, I upgraded because of the special romantic bond I have with the Ruinart. My table, with glorious sunlight steaming in is the perfect place for the Ruinart. It allows me to appreciate even more the glorious pale yellow colour that turns golden depending on the angle. Elegant is a word that easily describes this champagne. Persistent effervescence captivated my stare and the nose is all lemon and grapefruit. This is hardly surprising as Ruinart is essentially a Chardonnay champagne house, with this blanc de blanc its signature bubbly. The palate reveals green apple and more citrus, while mousse is silky. It is refined and in a word, sensational.
In the midst of the excitement of the Ruinart and Ca'del Bosco. it is quite easy to forget the other option in the Premium selection, namely the Perrier Jouét Blanc de Blancs, an impressive NV champagne in its own right, but for me it is like asking Julia Roberts to steal the limelight from Meryl Streep!
The truth is, you do not have to go for the Premium option to be left with an overwhelming feeling that the brunch at Bvlgari easily offers the best drinks packages in the city. There were two other brunches that had fabulous drinks options, but one has since been discontinued and the other has completely ended its free-flow champagne concept. At this brunch, in addition to the two aforementioned drinks options, there is also the cocktail package. The latter is head and shoulders above any brunch's in the city, recognising that not everyone wants to have wine or bubbles at a brunch. Overall, impressive.
Service
This is one of the strengths at the restaurant. There is a very high staff to guest ratio, something commendable considering the challenges restaurants faced during Covid-19 restrictions. New restaurant manager, Kevin Wu, looks the part. This is hardly surprising considering his hotel background where he worked for the Shangri-La Hotel group and The Peninsula. Staff are vigilant, intuitively topping up drinks without prompting. While I was sad to see that Paul, the hotel sommelier, was not on the floor, I am pretty sure that role will be filled soon. Service, to sum up, was not overbearing while clearly present - just the right balance.
Value for money?
Absolutely. Thanks to a discount on local social app Dianping, brunch with soft drinks, is available at 548 RMB, instead of the usual 618 RMB. The end result is a champagne brunch that costs 946RMB. Psychologically, coming under a 1000 RMB is important for guests like me. There is no doubt in my mind that the brunch offers fantastic value for what is paid. It is an afternoon of quality food, service and of course drinks in a classy and elegant setting in a one star Michelin restaurant in the Bvlgari Hotel. Despite my mis-givings about Michelin in Beijing, the star certainly adds to the feeling of a fine afternoon out. It is certainly a very competitive price in terms of what else is available in the market.
Verdict
Food. Service. Drinks. Value for money. Brunch atmosphere. These are the elements that make a brunch. Food. Service. Drinks. Value for money. Brunch atmosphere. These are the individual parts which, when well-balanced, make a brunch exceptional. These are all in place at Il Ristorante by Niko Romito. Anything else I would like to see, though? There is a beautiful bar. I would like to pass by with the hostess, as she walks me to my seat, while I am offered a welcome drink. Who will say no to a mimosa? Anything else? I think a couple chefs periodically on the floor always allows guests to experience a bit of theatre as chefs serve a dish or two.
Overall, however, this is one of 3 essential brunches in Beijing and I would be willing to proclaim it to be the best brunch in the city, taking into account the aforementioned factors. They just do most things so well over here. I can barely wait to see how the menu would have been altered by my next visit which is not far away.
Details
Ristorante by Niko Romito
Bvlgari Hotel
Beijing
86 (10) 8555 8555
Sunday Brunch
Food 618, but 548 on Dianping (subject to availability)
Cocktails 298
Perrier Jouet Rosé, Ca’del Bosco Franciacorta, 2 Bvlgari wines 398
Premium champagne 990
Note: sparkling options may change
Closest subway Liangmaqiao Line 10
Exit D - a leisurely 10 minute walk.
I: bmstoltenkamp
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