Brasserie Angelique - Jumeirah Etihad Towers
|Intimate and not crowded, despite the number of seats.|
|Rouille prepared for the beef tartare.|
|As tasty as it was theatrical, my beef tartare.|
After being warmly welcomed by Nicolas Cauphin, the affable and infectiously charming restaurant manager, we were shown menus. The menu, a single A3 sized one, is simple enough. For our entrees, I ordered two starters, the beef tartare and Burgundy snails, and my daughter ordered oxtail consomme.
Everything was well presented, but kudos for the presentation and preparation of the beef tartare. It was brought by trolley to the table, and it was then prepared. I watched as Nicolas added ingredients including egg yolk, dijon, tomato sauce, salt, a bit of tabasco and Worcestershire sauce to a bowl. Afterwards, the USDA prime beef was added to the sauce (Rouille) and mixed. This was theatre. The end result? Delicious. The sourdough bread and pickled vegetables were just as tasty, but this was about the beef tartare. The snails were much simpler, prepared with parsley, garlic, salt, butter and puff pastry.
|The lamb with fennel, onion puree and butternut.|
|My daughter's superb duck.|
|Sides of asparagus and roasted almonds and potato gratin!|
My main course, the sumac crusted lamb, could not have been better cooked. The gorgeous pink colour as it was placed in front of me was testimony to that. Sumac, a North African spice used extensively in Middle Eastern cooking, worked surprisingly well. It took a fine piece of New Zealand lamb and made it even better. The flavors were complex thanks to the sumac, the onion puree and the subtle garnishing of cress. My daughter, on the other hand, had another French classic dish, the slow cooked Soulard duck breast. The carrot emulsion was divine, as was the intense Aigre douce sauce. Again, well cooked.
My wine pairing was a full bodied Paul Jaboulet, Gigondas Pierre Aiguille 2010, a spicy wine with berry notes that gets much better as it breathes. Again, well done to Nicolas!
|One of many highlights , the crepe suzette.|
|Pretty, oh so pretty.|
|My dessert wine, expertly aired with the crepes suzette and soufflé.|
At the end of the night, comparison to Bord Eau and Catalan seemed irrelevant as I realized that Brasserie Angelique was different. In fact, each of these restaurants mentioned here had something very unique. Rather, I celebrated the joy at having been able to be part of a gem of an experience.
The low down
Jumeirah at Etihad Towers
02 811 5666
Starters 45-115 Dhs
mains 135-260 Dhs
Dessert 40 Dhs
Sides 20-25 Dhs